Catwalk show

Here are the pictures of the 2 outfits I made.
Enjoy...

trousers

1°step: pattern according to drawing

2°step: in calicot

feedback:
-the seam of one leg it twisting. After checking my pattern, I can say that the problem is in the sewing. Therefore, I need to redo a second toile, better sewed.
-maybe need to add lenght of the waist as my model has a long bust. Has to see directly on her. as well as the lenght of the legs.
-closing: zip on the side

3°step: 2°toile

Feedback:
-the second toile is better. the seams of the legs are the same. the left leg is not twisting any more.
-after trying it on my model, I have to fit the waist better on her and give a bit more ease one the side for the zip. In other words: change the patterns!
-the lenght of the legs are good and my waist as well. However, I need to redo the curve of the waist's edge. it is not symmetrical.
-I need a facing for all the waist. this facing will be fused to avoid gaping as I saw it happened on my model.
-I need a facing as well along the side zip. It will be one piece together with the facing of the waist.
-the rest of the legs seams will be overlocked and a hem at the ankle.
-the trousers will be topstitched.

4°step: FINAL FABRIC

a bit of changes in the plan:
I need to fuse some parts of the trousers as well with the facing. The white panels are in light fabric. I fused it to give more rigidity as the dark fabric is drill. I didn t want a difference of reaction between them two, more specially because it s around the waist and the fabric can stretch.

blouse

1°step: pattern according to drawing

2°step: in calicot

feedback:
-I have to make a seam under the boobs, where the edge of the trousers will stand, to have the desired fluidity of the top part and the fitting around the waist which will be under the trousers. The belt will be made in only one fabric while the top part will need 3 layers.
-the blouse will be closed with a zip at the side seam.
-need to make a toile in a fabric that is closer to my chosen fabric (chiffon)

3°step: 2°toile:

 

feedback:

-my model couldn t move her arm properly. so I had to put the sleeve higher on her arm and change the patterns.

-I will need to saw the 3 panels together at the sleeve.

-for the finition, I have differents options. I can make every layer doubled or do a gumping overlocking. I choosed the second option as I think the first one may reduce the fluidity that I want for my top

-the zip will be under the left arm as it will be easier to put it in than if it was on the right arm.

4°step: 3° toile

feeback: 

-patterns are good. the model can move her arm.

-After a test, I noticed that the gumping overlocking take a lot a fabric in the seam. Therefore, I need to consider this fact when I m cutting the panels in the real fabric: leave a seam allowance of 5 mm at the edge that will be taken in the gumping overlocking.

5°step: FINAL  FABRIC

Flower jacket

1°step: the collar

2°step: the whole jacket in calicot

feedback:
-the collar covered too much the neck. have to put down all the lines of the collar around 5 cm down.
-the 3D effect of the flower is not good. have to redo it. But before that, I have to finish the final look with the sleeves.
-the darts on the boobs has to change position to suit better the design. Then, there will be ended in the side seam, which may change the fitted of the jacket.
-closing of the jacket: apparent button along the side of the first panel.
-2 differents colours of fabric. Outside, dark blue; inside, white or light blue. It will be more apparent in the flower and the cuffs.

3°step: the pattern

4°step: 2°toile

feedback:
-the right sleeve need more fabric on the shoulder head.
-the 3D effect of the flower is better but still too flat. have to work on it again. I may need to stitch it by hand to make it 3D.
-the collar is better. you see more skin and that give a younger look.
-as the darts changed position, the jacket is less fitted but still ok.
-fabric like taffetas. still 2 differents colours.
-the raglan seam has to be the same on both sleeves. same angle.
-a bit too loose at the back. have to fitted a bit more around the shoulder blade. have to see it on my model.
-I have to think about the lining and facing.
-closing: a button inside has to be added to fix all the front panels together and therefore keep the line of the collar perfect. But, I don't want the button to be apparent, then, I will have to make a button hole only in the facing of the first panel and the button will be between the 2 fabrics, hidden.
-cuff if the sleeve sepparate for better effect.

5°step: 3°toile

 

feedback:

-flower is ok now.

-I have to think of how it s gonna work with the facing of the flower and how it s gonna be sewed between the the facing and outside fabric of the front panel. 

-no more hidden button to stand together the first and second front panels because it will stand out and be visible. I choosed a press stud. More discreet.

-the facing of all panels will be in white.

-topstitch in blue. 

-button holes differents than the ones of the short. 

-lining of the front panels: I choosed not to make it looser as it is not necessary. But instead of the dart, it will be pleat.

-the lining of the back: no back pleat. it is not necessary because the pleat is only for the ease of the shoulder blades. But this part is half naked and the other part is sewed with a facing.So no need of ease.

-the lining of the flower sleeve will be completely different from the outside part, as well with the facing of the flower.

All of that is complicated...

6°step: FINAL FABRIC

notes:

I make the final patterns (inside and outside) of the flower from the model in real fabric as the reaction of the fabric is different from the calicot. And I want it to be perfect.

coat

1°step: pattern according to my drawing.

 

2°step: in calicot

feeedback:
-has to more fitted around the boobs.
-has to create a shoulder part to stand the collar on the shoulders.
-press buts to close it.
-has to accentuate the puffy effect of the sleeves.
-good ball effect.
-maybe the coat should be a bit longer. has to see on my model.
-fabric like taffetas. can be the same as my flower jacket.
-the collar need to be fused. Has to test different kind of fusing to see which one is the best for my design.
-has to think about the lining and facing.

3°step: 2°toile

what has been done:

-I corrected the fitting on the boobs and the sleeves.
-I made the shoulder part. therefore, it has to be sewed in the seam of the collar to be "invisible".
-The lining will be a flat piece inside the coat shorter than the outside part. Like this, it will give the ball effect.

4°step: on my model

  

feedback:

-my model has shorter shoulder that my mannequin. I need to change the patterns of the collar.

-the fitting of the boobs are alright. But I have to make a dart at the middle of the back.

-the lenght of the coat is too short. I will add up about 10 cm to cover the butt.

-On the front seam, I m making a pocket with a flap.

-I need to fuse the collar, inside and outside  and the shoulder part with a hard fusing.

-I need as well to fuse the pocket flap and the 2 bottom pieces of the outside collar. I dont want the bottom part of the collar too stiff as it has to be round for the ball effect.

-a rope will be inserted in the cuffs and the hem for the shrinking/ball effect.

-the closing will be with press studs. on the top of the collar and at the end.

5°step: FINAL FABRIC

short

1°step: pattern:

2°step: in calicot

feedback:
-the opening of the short will be the buttons. no zip on the side.
-no lining but french seam and overlocking. it s depending on the seam.
-"cuff" at the end of each leg. cuff separate. one side of the fabric blue and the other white.
-need to make a facing including the belt and the button opening.
-the leg cuffn the belt and the opening/seam will be topstitched.

3°step: FINAL FABRIC

Outfits in making

Here are the drawings of the 2 outfits I choosed to make. It will be 5 differents pieces.