jeudi 7 avril 2011

coat

1°step: pattern according to my drawing.



2°step: in calicot





feeedback:
-has to more fitted around the boobs.
-has to create a shoulder part to stand the collar on the shoulders.
-press buts to close it.
-has to accentuate the puffy effect of the sleeves.
-good ball effect.
-maybe the coat should be a bit longer. has to see on my model.
-fabric like taffetas. can be the same as my flower jacket.
-the collar need to be fused. Has to test different kind of fusing to see which one is the best for my design.
-has to think about the lining and facing.

3°step: 2°toile



what has been done:

-I corrected the fitting on the boobs and the sleeves.
-I made the shoulder part. therefore, it has to be sewed in the seam of the collar to be "invisible".
-The lining will be a flat piece inside the coat shorter than the outside part. Like this, it will give the ball effect.

4°step: on my model



  
feedback:

-my model has shorter shoulder that my mannequin. I need to change the patterns of the collar.
-the fitting of the boobs are alright. But I have to make a dart at the middle of the back.
-the lenght of the coat is too short. I will add up about 10 cm to cover the butt.
-On the front seam, I m making a pocket with a flap.
-I need to fuse the collar, inside and outside  and the shoulder part with a hard fusing.
-I need as well to fuse the pocket flap and the 2 bottom pieces of the outside collar. I dont want the bottom part of the collar too stiff as it has to be round for the ball effect.
-a rope will be inserted in the cuffs and the hem for the shrinking/ball effect.
-the closing will be with press studs. on the top of the collar and at the end.



5°step: FINAL FABRIC

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