Flower jacket

1°step: the collar

2°step: the whole jacket in calicot

feedback:
-the collar covered too much the neck. have to put down all the lines of the collar around 5 cm down.
-the 3D effect of the flower is not good. have to redo it. But before that, I have to finish the final look with the sleeves.
-the darts on the boobs has to change position to suit better the design. Then, there will be ended in the side seam, which may change the fitted of the jacket.
-closing of the jacket: apparent button along the side of the first panel.
-2 differents colours of fabric. Outside, dark blue; inside, white or light blue. It will be more apparent in the flower and the cuffs.

3°step: the pattern

4°step: 2°toile

feedback:
-the right sleeve need more fabric on the shoulder head.
-the 3D effect of the flower is better but still too flat. have to work on it again. I may need to stitch it by hand to make it 3D.
-the collar is better. you see more skin and that give a younger look.
-as the darts changed position, the jacket is less fitted but still ok.
-fabric like taffetas. still 2 differents colours.
-the raglan seam has to be the same on both sleeves. same angle.
-a bit too loose at the back. have to fitted a bit more around the shoulder blade. have to see it on my model.
-I have to think about the lining and facing.
-closing: a button inside has to be added to fix all the front panels together and therefore keep the line of the collar perfect. But, I don't want the button to be apparent, then, I will have to make a button hole only in the facing of the first panel and the button will be between the 2 fabrics, hidden.
-cuff if the sleeve sepparate for better effect.

5°step: 3°toile

 

feedback:

-flower is ok now.

-I have to think of how it s gonna work with the facing of the flower and how it s gonna be sewed between the the facing and outside fabric of the front panel. 

-no more hidden button to stand together the first and second front panels because it will stand out and be visible. I choosed a press stud. More discreet.

-the facing of all panels will be in white.

-topstitch in blue. 

-button holes differents than the ones of the short. 

-lining of the front panels: I choosed not to make it looser as it is not necessary. But instead of the dart, it will be pleat.

-the lining of the back: no back pleat. it is not necessary because the pleat is only for the ease of the shoulder blades. But this part is half naked and the other part is sewed with a facing.So no need of ease.

-the lining of the flower sleeve will be completely different from the outside part, as well with the facing of the flower.

All of that is complicated...

6°step: FINAL FABRIC

notes:

I make the final patterns (inside and outside) of the flower from the model in real fabric as the reaction of the fabric is different from the calicot. And I want it to be perfect.